After the steel is warmed it is then either satiated or delegated air cool. It is not yet appropriate for use as a knife. When the steel hits that golden straw color, you know you nailed it. Your email address will not be published. You can either prime your bucket of oil by dipping some hot scrap metal like rebar in, or you can dip the tip of your knife into the oil and wait for the flames to die out. You can make a “good” knife out of it, but it is hard to make a “great” knife … Try Google-ing “heat treat knife your city” and go from there. The point of normalizing the blade is to stabilize the structure of the steel, so that when quenching is performed, a certain degree of warping can be avoided. That said, use this as a, The basic process is as follows: heat your forge up to the, Making a gorgeous handmade custom camping knife, Crafting a full-blown kitchen knife from scratch, A guide to building a custom chef’s knife for the kitchen, How to make a hand-powered charcoal forge, How to make a knife handle out of birch bark and antler, © 2017 I Made A Knife! Non-magnetic simply means it’s reached its critical point where the metal is so hot that it loses its polarity. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Hi folks. With the torch, keep the metal in the hottest part of … I'll get back to you as soon as I can. Heat to 1500, soak 10 minutes. Heat-treating D2 tool steel involves multiple steps. That said, it’s also going to make it a lot harder to file or sand down, so make sure you’re happy with your knife before you treat it. I think I probably did ok-ish. Hold the metal with a pair of metal tongs. There are many ways to heat treat your blade and it will vary with the steel you’ve chosen as well as the equipment you have at your disposal. There are 2 or 3 guys who have used my HT forges to make knives to sell while they gather the money to upgrade to an electric HT oven. Differential heat treatment (also called selective heat treatment or local heat treatment) is a technique used during heat treating to harden or soften certain areas of a steel object, creating a difference in hardness between these areas. Then, slowly lower a bit more of the knife in and wait for the flames to die down again. Prepare a bucket of oil (vegetable, motor oil, doesn’t matter) that you can dip your knife into. Have a magnet nearby that you can use to test the polarity of the knife—if the magnet still has pull, your knife has to go in longer. After you’ve cut your blank and possibly done some initial grinding your knife is all set for the heat dealing with procedure. Thanks for reaching out! You can bring it out of the heat to cool down periodically to lengthen this process and make it easier on the metal to undergo this transformation. Share ... Long answer : You may find it easier to build a temporary "Sword forge " for heat treating. Having a bigger window for success means you can do this with simple tools and still get a good result. Temper a knife blade in a conventional kitchen oven. I also used a ground forge for the first forged knife I made. Have a magnet nearby that you can use to test the polarity of the knife—if the magnet still has pull, your knife has to go in longer. Once they do, slowly lower the rest (it wouldn’t be a bad idea to have a fire extinguisher or a powdered fire retardant handy). While others are intricate and not quickly done. Please refer to the instructions for heat treating your particular steel. This is just left of scale and built up carbon that we’ll scrape off shortly. Most agree that the steel really needs to be cooled off at a high rate, like 1 to 2 seconds and, that is absolutely true. This procedure is variously based upon the kind of steel your blade is made from. I dug a hole in our fire pit, stuck a black iron pipe in it and added a $5 hair dryer from the thrift store to the other end and built a fire on top of the hole. Have your container of room-temperature oil or water available for cooling. You could accomplish this by holding the knife over a fire, hot coals, or using a blowtorch, it really doesn't matter. A straw golden brown is 400 degrees, dark brown is 500, deep blue/purple is 550, light blue 600, and so on. Once it’s submerged, swish it slowly side-to-side horizontally as it cools. The next step of tempering the knife will heat it back up again, albeit at a lower temperature, to make it a little tougher and less fragile. Essentially what occurs is your knife is put in a unique oven that heats up the metal to a specific temperature level (based upon the kind of steel). Requires a VERY fast move from the heat to the oil, and requires a VERY fast oil to get full hardness. Heat the metal to non-magnetic (the critical point). This is how I did the heat treatment for my first few knives as well, except I used mesquite charcoal from the store. Give yourself a pat on the back. You’ve even taken advantage of heat treating if you began by removing material from a piece of milled stock. However, that doesn’t mean you only have 1 second to get from your heat source to your quench. The process above is a proven way to harden these materials. When using a furnace with a PID and controlled temperatures, high alloy steels are usually “easier” to heat treat. Although he has retired, Bos remains an intricate part of Buck's heat treat protocol. Heat treatment refers to the process where softer steel is hardened so that it stands up to use as a knife blade. There are many techniques for creating a difference in properties, but most can be defined as either differential hardening or differential tempering. He said it should be heat treated like W-1. The preferred method in the community is a homemade 2-brick forge supplied with heat by a torch. Heat dealing with the steel on your knife blade is among the most crucial actions in producing and developing your knife. The best advice that I can give is to go to Alpha Knife Supply and look under their knife steel selections. By backyardsmith, October 20, 2006 in Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc. It alone is what determines whether or not your knife will hold up under abuse, shatter when dropped, or bend like a pretzel when hacking on an … Farner now runs the heat treat department, as well as serves the custom knife makers. When this procedure is total the steel is incredibly difficult however extremely breakable. I just started playing around with knife-making with some truck leaf spring.I think I have the gist on how to quench and heat-treat for a serviceable knife (time will tell).A Marine friend of mine asked if I could make him a SUPER HEAVY EOD-style knife. A search for "Don Fogg heat treat drum" should bring up a good few hits. The steel becomes nonmagnetic at the Curie point. Please exercise extreme caution in this part of the process! Heat the metal to non-magnetic (the critical point). Apply the heat, either by putting the metal into the forge or oven, or by heating it with the torch. Other steels like the 1095 can be quenched the second they hit critical. As soon as once again, this depends upon the kind of steel. There are many great tutorials online for creating your own forge (see here, here, or here), but the general idea is to create an environment that you can heat up to above 1450°F and hold there while you wash your knife in heat until it’s non-magnetic. For 1095 steel (as this blade is), this occurs at a temperature above 1335° F. ​​​ To heat treat steel, I heat it up beyond “cherry red” to glowing red. For O1, hold it in there for another 4 minutes or so. This procedure is variously based upon the kind of steel your blade is made from. This is done by heat treating. Using a pair of industrial sized tongs, stick your knife in the heat until it’s a consistent cherry red (sometimes 10-15 minutes). Ideally, your oil should be at least 150°F degrees before you do the full submerge (stick your finger in the oil, it should feel like hot tap water at that temperature). Temper the knife blade by setting an oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit and allowing the blade to heat for 20 to 30 minutes. On this website, you will see many hundreds of defined knife terms, detailed descriptions and information on heat treating and cryogenic processing, on handles and blades, on stands and sheaths, and on knife types from hunting and utility to military, counterterrorism, and collection. Yes, steel changes color as it is heated. Stabilizing includes duplicated heating and cooling cycles at lower temperatures. Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc ; heat treating a long blade heat treating a long blade. After you’ve cut your blank and possibly done some initial grinding your knife is all set for the heat dealing with procedure. Whatever method you used,the final bevel should be on the blade and the surface should be brought to the desired finish. It was almost certainly annealed, or softened, before it came to you. Quenching is the process of rapidly cooling down your knife. The precut knife blanks which we sell are all 1095 high carbon steel. If your blade starts to glow yellow, it’s too hot. Throughout this procedure the steel goes through modifications: The steel ends up being non-magnetic, the carbon enters into service and combines with the steel, the crystalline structure of the steel modifications. Alternatively, check out this simple Soup Can Forge build that you can do yourself. Don’t stick the blade in all at once though. Heat evenly to 1475F for 10 minutes then immediately quench in fast oil (fast enough to cool the steel through the 1200F-1000F in less than.5 seconds). That said, use this as a guide to heat treating, but not a verbatim blow-by-blow. Tempering includes warming the knife to lower temperature levels (400-degree variety) a number of times. I don't work with S30V or 440C so I was a little hesitant about answering your post. For those of you that don’t have a forge and don’t want to get into that side of things yet, it’s a small expense to guarantee a proper job! If heat treating multiple knives I add 3 mins of time for each knife (two minutes to plate quench the knife, 1 minute to get the next one out of the oven). The basic process is as follows: heat your forge up to the critical point for your steel (+1450°F depending on your steel). A recommended heat treatment would be 1850-1900°F for 30 minutes, plate quench, cryo, and temper 300-500°F. You can find heat treating information listed there, however, my gut feeling is that S30V does not heat treat … Normalizing your knife reduces the chance of warping, cracking, and the overall stress of this change in temperature. We first normalize the blade by heating it to a non-magnetic capacity. Required fields are marked *. Without cryo the austenitizing temperature should be no higher than 1875°F. Heat dealing with the steel on your knife blade is among the most crucial actions in producing and developing your knife. 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